Those pesky string yarn weft tails! There is a lot of starting and stopping with these mug rugs. Normally, tucking a weft tail back into the shed adds a bit of extra thickness at the selvedge. So, what about this very thick weft? It has the potential to throw everything off balance. A few easy tips help minimize the distortion the thicker weft can cause.
Taming String Yarn Weft Tails
- Begin the thick weft on alternating sides. This will prevent one selvedge from building up more than the other.
- Taper the end of the string yarn, cutting it at a steep angle.
- Starting about 1 3/4″ inside the selvedge, send the shuttle through the shed toward the selvedge, going over or under the outermost warp end. Pull through until almost all of the weft tail is caught.
- In same shed, send the shuttle back through to the other side, aware of encircling the one warp end.
- Beat. (Beat on open shed. Beat again. Change sheds. Beat again.)
- Continue weaving.
- To end the thick weft, leave a 1 3/4″ tail, and taper the end of the string yarn, as before. Lay the tail back in the last shed, going around the outermost warp end. Beat.
Things happen that throw us off balance. From personal celebrations to unexpected losses. Don’t be afraid. Putting trust in the Lord minimizes the inner turmoil. The Lord is my light. He lights my way. What is there to be afraid of? Wholehearted trust in the Lord pushes fearfulness away.
May you walk in a lighted path.
It’s this kind of detail that takes a handcrafted item up a notch. A hanging tab made from a handwoven band is more than an accent for a handwoven hand towel. The small hanging tab, mostly unnoticed, adds a statement: This towel has a purpose. It is meant to be placed where it will be used.
How to Make Hanging Tabs for Towels from a Handwoven Band:
- Mark cutting lines on the woven band. My lines are 4 1/4″ apart.
- Zigzag forward and back on both sides of the marked lines, leaving room for cutting apart.
- Cut the band apart at the marked lines, between the zigzag rows.
- Decide where and how to place the hanging tab.
- Position the tab, and push the zigzagged ends to the fold inside the pressed and folded towel hem. Pin or clip in place.
- Stitch the towel hem, securely catching the ends of the hanging tab.
- Use the towel. Enjoy!
Your prayers matter. Pray a blessing on your children and grandchildren. Your prayers add a detail to their lives that sets them apart. The blessing we ask is that they know the Lord. That they will call on the Lord. That they will say they belong to the Lord. Ultimately, our prayer is for the Lord to place them where they live out the purpose for which he has designed them.
May your prayers reach the heart of God.
We all have threading errors from time to time. This time I completely transposed the threading on shafts one and two. I saw the error when I started weaving; the pattern in the cloth was not as it should be. After a few days of contemplating, arguing with myself, and studying the error, I decided on an ingenious and risky fix (I hinted at it in My Best Weaving Stunt to Date!). Switch the two mis-threaded shafts. Yikes! One slip up could bring the whole warp down–figuratively and literally. I caught myself holding my breath several times through the process. Gently hopeful, but not 100% sure that my plan would work. Thankfully, it did work.
The threading went from this…
Here’s a short video that shows the maneuvers I did to correct the error. No re-threading needed! The kuvikas square within a square wins!
May you be brave enough to take appropriate risks when needed.
Happy Problem Solving,
Knots show up in the warp. It’s a normal part of weaving. Weaving over the knot is almost never a good idea. You have to deal with the little obstacle. This is why it is handy to know how to splice the warp. Thankfully, it’s not hard to do. There are a few standard variations on how to perform this operation. I use a method that I first came across here, by Kirsten Froberg, that makes sense to me. And, hooray, there are no tails to weave in later!
I made a new video to demonstrate how I do it. You can watch it below…
How to Remove a Knot in the Warp
- Insert a replacement warp end. Attach with a pin.
- Weave an inch with original and replacement warp ends in place.
- Cut original warp end. Hang it over the back beam.
- Weave until original warp end is long enough to reinsert.
- Insert original warp end. Attach with a pin.
- Weave an inch with replacement and original warp ends in place.
- Cut and remove replacement warp end.
- Trim cut warp ends after wet finishing.
May the knots that get in your way be easy to remove.
How far will you travel? How will you know when you have arrived? Do you wish you could know when you are halfway there? Applied to weaving, I like to have the answers to these questions before I begin the “journey.” A pre-measured tape gives me consistency, especially important for multiple pieces in a set. The tape also acts as my “trip odometer.” I can see how far I’ve gone, and exactly how much is left to weave. It satisfies my insatiable need to know how close I am to the end. Are you like that, too?
How to Make and Use a Pre-Measured Tape
- Roll of 3/4″ or wider twill tape (or any cloth tape or ribbon that does not stretch, and that pins easily)
- Tape measure with inches and/or centimeters
- Fine tip permanent marker
- Flat head pins
- Use the permanent marker to place markings on the twill tape, as measured with the tape measure. Mark the start line 1/2″ from the end of the twill tape, so that the tape can be pinned in front of the mark.
- After drawing a line for the starting point and ending point, draw a line at the midway point, labeled MID.
- Include dotted lines for hem measurements, if applicable. Write the hem measurement on the twill tape; i.,e., 3/4″ or 2 cm.
- Write the weaving length measurement on the twill tape. Include calculation for takeup, if desired; i.,e., 25″ + 3″.
- Write the project or item description on the twill tape, if desired, for ease of repeat use; i.e., handtowel.
- Add other lines or marks, as needed, for borders, placement of weft colors, or other design elements.
- 1/2″ after the final marking, cut pre-measured twill tape from the roll of tape.
With the warp under tension, pin the pre-measured twill tape near the right or left selvedge with two flat-head pins. Match the start line of the tape with the beginning of the weaving.
Before each advancement of the warp, move the pin closest to the breast beam to a point near the fell line. In this way, have the pins leapfrog each other, moving only one pin each time. Always keep the warp under tension when moving the pins.
May you accurately measure your ways.