Tried and True: Leftover Linen on the Band Loom
- By Karen
- October 8, 2019
- 6 Comments
Remember that time you miscalculated when planning your warp? You found the mistake when you were threading, and you ended up with an extra group of ends. If you have ever done something like that, then you understand where this leftover linen warp came from.
This little linen leftover warp is now on the Glimåkra band loom. I removed two ends to get a warp with symmetrical colors. It’s perfect for making hanging tabs to go on the leftover linen waffle weave washcloths. The weft on these band loom shuttles is from one of the little linen warp chains I mentioned last week. (See Put the Linen Back to Use.)
When the thread comes to an end on the shuttle, I follow this simple process to begin a new weft.
- Place the ending weft through the shed, leaving a tail of at least 1/2”.
- Without changing sheds, lightly tap the weft in place with the band knife.
- Bring the new weft on a shuttle through the same shed, going in the same direction as the previous weft’s shuttle, leaving a tail of at least 1/2”. (There is now a weft tail extending in both directions.)
- Without changing sheds, lightly tap the new weft into place with the band knife. (This helps to make a snug fit for the two wefts in this shed.)
- Change sheds. Beat firmly with the band knife.
- Send the weft back through.
- Beat firmly, and continue weaving.
- After weaving 1/2” further, clip off the weft tails; or, clip all the tails after the entire band is woven and has been cut from the band loom.
May you put your leftovers to good use.
Happy Weaving,
Karen
6 Comments
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Tried and True: Rag Rug with Surprising Rosepath Inlay
- By Karen
- September 10, 2019
- 14 Comments
The first rag rug on this 12/6 cotton warp is well underway. This rug is mostly plain weave, with one simple rosepath repeat every ten centimeters. I am weaving the rosepath motif without tabby between pattern picks. The treadling is 1, 2, 3, 4, 1, 4, 3, 2, 1. The dark brown motif contrasts with the surrounding light-colored plain weave. It almost looks as if a thick chain has been laid across the rug. I transform the otherwise dark rosepath “chains” with a simple bright inlay strip.
Rosepath with Inlay
- Weave the first four picks of the rosepath pattern, treadling 1, 2, 3, 4 (or, if using a different treadling sequence, weave up to the center pick).
- Lay in the center pick (treadle 1, in this example). Wait to beat it in.
- Measure and cut the inlay strip to size, tapering the ends.
- Put the inlay strip in the shed, laying it directly on top of the fabric strip already there.
- Beat in the weft as usual.
- Continue weaving to complete the rosepath pattern, treadling 4, 3, 2, 1 (or, as needed, for a different sequence).
You can accomplish a similar effect by weaving in a separate fabric strip for the center pick. In that case, cut tapered ends that are long enough to twist and tuck back into the shed. And carry the weft strip from the previous pick up the side.
The inlay method eliminates the extra bulk at the selvedges, and adds a slight thickness to the center pick, helping to give it a raised look. I am leaving the inlay weft tails loose, but you could cut them a little longer and tuck the ends in, if you prefer.
May you experience the simple pleasure of doing something unexpected.
Happy Weaving,
Karen
14 Comments
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Annie says:
Beautiful! You explain it so well that I’m adding it to my to do list. Thank you
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Marjorie Clay says:
How wide is your Ideal? It looks bigger than mine!
I admire your weaving so much! I started too late to achieve such mastery, but I love weaving. Warping, not so much! It is still too much of an adventure!
Marjorie
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Hi Marjorie, My Ideal is 100cm (39”). The warp on the loom is almost full weaving width.
Thank you for the compliment! I’m not that much ahead of you. I was also a very late beginner. So it’s certainly not too late for you to gain mastery in the areas you pursue. Maybe someday I can help you to love warping, too, as part of the whole beautiful process.
Happy weaving,
Karen
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Elisabeth Munkvold says:
How pretty! I love the variety of colors in the background stripes, too! When you do it this way, is the bright rose path center fabric visible on the back?
Elisabeth
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Hi Elisabeth, I’m using up fabric strips from previous rag rug projects, so I have a mixed assortment that I’m using here. I like the way some of the prints turn out when woven. That center inlay strip really appears only on the top side, except for little bits of color here and there. The reverse side shows the all-brown rosepath motifs, but a little lighter in color because the darkest side of the fabric is facing the top.
Karen
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Vida Clyne says:
You are amazing. such beautiful colours. I made a couple of rag rugs a few years ago but did it the cheap way using old denim jeans that took forever to prepare. I am currently finishing a throw in alpaca and considering what to weave next. so many weaves to explore. I love warping by the way, it is always a challenge to try to get the perfect warp. Thank you for for your inspirational blog.
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Hi Vida, I’m very happy that you like these colors! I’m sure your denim rag rugs are terrific. I’d like to make some denim rag rugs some day. Isn’t weaving an exciting field? There’s no end to what we can explore with our looms!! I agree with you about warping. It’s great to have a continual challenge.
I appreciate your kind words so much!
All the best,
Karen
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The loom is waiting a little while longer. There is work to he done on the outside of our primary home and more preparation on the inside of our retirement home.
I look forward to one home and all my crafts under one roof. And finding a way to keep the wild creatures on the out of the basement.
Today a coyote walked though the yard. Something to get used to.
Your weaving provides order in my wild world. It is beautiful and functional.
Blessings
Nannette-
Hi Nannette, Transitions are challenging. You have a lot to look forward to. We haven’t seen any coyotes on our property, but plenty of other wildlife – armadillos, roadrunners, gray foxes, blackbuck antelope, and so on.
Making beautiful things that are functional is a huge weaving goal of mine. Thank you for your thoughtful encouragement.
All the best,
Karen
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Very pretty rug Karen!
Another technique you can use when weaving a single pick of a color is to cut that strip twice the width of the rug plus overlap but only half the width of the other strips. Lay it in the shed with both ends hanging out. Wrap them around the edge thread and arch them back in the same shed, overlapping the tapered ends. I think it is less fussy than trying to tuck the ends in at the edges.
JennyPS:
My loom is working fine, although I did have to stop after weaving a bit and fix one shed that went wonky. I have seven of the twelve table napkins woven for our guild exchange. I’m hoping each warp will become easier to set up the treadling.-
Hi Jenny, Thank you for that very useful tip! I will try that.
I’m sure your sheds will get better and better with each successive warp.
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Joan H Harvey says:
I notice you are using a metal temple on this rug. Do you recommend metal rather than wooden temples for rag rugs?
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Hi Joan, I’m glad you asked! I prefer a wooden temple, even for rag rugs, but I don’t have a wooden one the right size for this rug, so I’m using the metal one instead. I like the wooden temple because it is lighter weight, and I can set it closer to the fell line without damaging the beater. The metal temple can gouge the beater if I set it too close to the fell. I’ve done that. Ouch! I guess it’s time for me to order another Glimakra temple. 🙂
Happy weaving,
Karen
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Tapestry Butterflies and Video Tutorial
- By Karen
- August 27, 2019
- 12 Comments
Wool butterflies are my crayons. I use them to color the spaces of my color-by-number cartoon that’s under the warp. I am using Borgs 6/2 Tuna wool and Borgs 6/1 Fårö wool in this tapestry, combining strands of various colors to get just the right hue, value, and intensity. Getting that right is the hard part. Winding butterflies is the easy part. Especially if you learned it from Joanne Hall, as I did.
It is essential to know how to make a good butterfly when you want to weave a tapestry on a big floor loom like this. A good butterfly is compact enough to easily pass through warp ends. And secure enough to stay intact through all those passes. It also needs to have a tail that is simple to extend. A good butterfly never ends up in a knot or a jumble of threads, but instead, gives your hands pure delight as it flows through your fingers to color your tapestry.
This video shows how I make my tapestry butterflies.
May your days be colored with delight.
From the crayon box,
Karen
12 Comments
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Joyce Lowder says:
Beautiful colors! 🙂 Nice, simple video. 🙂
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Charlotte says:
Good morning, dearest! What a lovely way to start my day…a fresh cup of coffee and your sweet video. I am so thankful that we were able to take Joanne’s workshop. I finally finished my sample and realize how much I like the movement in the cloth. There isn’t a cartoon in mind, for me. But, I hope one day to dream up something and put it on the floor loom.
Thank you for blessing me with your faithful love and kindness…
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Hi Charlotte, I, too, am grateful for that pictorial tapestry workshop! Movement in the cloth is a good way to describe it. It’s such a satisfying way to do tapestry.
Happy weaving,
Karen
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Beth Mullins says:
Well, isn’t that slick?! Thanks to you and Joanne for sharing this trick!
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Hi Beth, It is slick! Before I learned this simple method, my butterflies were nothing but trouble, coming undone and ending up in knots. Something so simple can make a huge difference.
Have a great day!
Karen
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Annie says:
Thank you for the video on butterflies, Karen! I have tried them from a book illustration and was thoroughly disappointed. They were loose and sloppy so I bought tapestry bobbins instead.
I am saving this video for a future planned project.May you have a blessed day. I am looking forward to seeing what you create with with these butterflies.
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Hi Annie, It’s nice to have butterflies that hold together. I had trouble with mine, too, before learning this method.
This tapestry will give me many hours of enjoyment! I’ll show it little by little.
All the best,
Karen
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Butterflies were used on a cardboard tapestry loom for a 1973 high school art project. The slick wrapping was not taught.
It would appear there is more to learn, even I areas I was confident..
Don’t know about West Texas, but after a humid, rainy and sunless Monday..Tuesday is dry and cloudless. Beautiful day! New skill! God is in the heavens today.
Nannette
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Hi Nannette, You have a great memory. It’s sweet that you remember these details from a high school art project.
In this part of Texas (not quite considered West Texas), sunshine and scattered clouds have been the norm. Every day is a good day!
Blessings,
Karen
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Allison Grove says:
Thanks for this video. I’ve struggled with using butterflies, but now realize I haven’t been winding the tail end tight enough and too few times. Allison
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Hi Allison, I’m thrilled that this video was a help to you. Now, you’ll have even more fun as you weave tapestries.
Happy weaving,
Karen
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Tried and True: Center the Reed
- By Karen
- March 12, 2019
- 10 Comments
Eleven hours and thirty-six minutes into this project, the starting line for weaving is just around the corner. Wind the warp, and beam it. Thread the heddles. Sley the reed. Unlock the back beam ratchet. Move the countermarch to the front of the loom. … Pause when you think about moving the twelve shafts and the reed forward with the countermarch. Reach. Wiggle. Pull. Wiggle. Pull some more. Got it. Now, put the reed in the beater. Relax? Almost, but not yet.
We must not forget to center the reed. I center the reed just as soon as the reed is in the beater.
How to Center the Reed
(We are actually centering the warp that is in the reed.)
Supplies needed: Tape measure (or string)
1. Using the tape measure, measure from the right edge of the warp in the reed to the outer edge of the beater on the right-hand side. Hold the tape measure with your fingers marking the measurement.
2. Holding that measurement, place the tape measure at the left edge of the warp in the reed stretching out toward the outer edge of the beater on the left-hand side.
3. Note the difference in measurement between the right side and left side. Move the reed in the beater to center.
4. Repeat the first two steps until the measurements are the same on both sides.
Now you can relax. Enjoy the moment, because you are that much closer to seeing fabric take shape!
May you enjoy the process you’re in.
Patiently,
Karen
10 Comments
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Trina says:
Only a weaver would appreciate the amount of concentration that has gone into getting to this point! Well done!
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Hi Trina, True! And only a weaver would understand that I enjoyed every minute of it.
Thanks,
Karen
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Gosh! So much involved with setting up a countermarch. I’ve only dealt with easy-peasy jack-types. I agree with Trina’s sentiment.
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Hi Beth, The countermarch seems straightforward to me. It’s all I know. Having 12 shafts does add some complexity though, I admit.
It’s what we get from the loom that counts, and I always admire the cloth you weave!
Happy weaving,
Karen
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I do not yet enjoy setting up the loom. It is so hard to wait to throw the first shuttle. But, like all things worth doing, the solid foundation makes the end result beautiful.
Praise God .
Nannette
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Hi Nannette, I find the setting up process calming (most of the time), but I understand that each of us approaches the loom differently. Point well taken that a solid foundation makes the end result beautiful.
Thanks,
Karen
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Cindy Bills says:
Thank you for always showing us your process! It is fascinating. I had to chuckle at the “eleven hours and thirty -six minutes…” I recently spent hours working on a cramming and denting project only to find as I began to weave that I’d missed a dent in the sleying. Then missed catching it when I tied on. And when I first started to weave! Oh boy, patience is required then, for sure. It is important to love the process and the blessing of it all. 🙂
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Hi Cindy, I think denting errors are the worst of all. After I finished sleying this one I realized that I had missed the step of checking the number of dents in each grouping. I’m hoping, hoping that I won’t have to regret that later. But even re-sleying becomes part of the whole process, doesn’t it?
Happy weaving,
Karen
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Vivian says:
What a beautiful warp. It is inspiring.
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Hi Vivian, Thank you so much! I agree with you that this warp is beautiful. I like looking at it.
All the best,
Karen
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Tried and True: Color Gradation
- By Karen
- December 11, 2018
- 6 Comments
When I decided to use up some of the quills that have collected, I stumbled on one of my favorite techniques—color gradation. The weft colors change gradually instead of making distinct weft stripes. Remember the placemats on the little countermarch loom? I am weaving the last few.
Using up thread left on quills for some color gradation play.
Color and weave effects on plain weave. 8/2 cotton weft is doubled.
The quills on a double-bobbin shuttle don’t always empty at exactly the same time. The quill that has thread remaining on it goes in a box for later use. Those quills in the box are what I’m using here. For this placemat I’m letting gradient color changes happen in varying increments, according to the amount of thread left on the quill. I have five shades of 8/2 cotton, ranging from coral pink to pumpkin.
Color “sisters” play well together.
This is the perfect setup for some subtle color gradation: Five closely-related hues, a double-bobbin shuttle, and a supply of leftover quills. For best effect, I arrange the colors in order, from light to dark, or dark to light.
Color Gradation
- Weave a section with two quills of color A (the lightest color)
- Weave the next section with one quill of color A and one quill of color B (one shade darker than color A)
- Weave the next section with two quills of color B
- Weave the next section with one quill of color B and one quill of color C (one shade darker than color B)
And so on…
What could be simpler?
Pumpkin color adds a pleasing subtle accent to the corals and reds in the cloth.
May you make something beautiful with the little bits that you have.
Happy weaving,
Karen
6 Comments
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Ruth Terry says:
Such a lovely way to play with color. I often transition from one color to another without a hard line by weaving 1 pick with new color, 4 picks with old color, 2 picks with new color, 3 picks with old color, 3 picks with new color, 2 picks with old color, 4 picks with new color, 1 pick with old color and transition complete. Will try your double bobbin change next time I am ready to play with colors. Blessings during this advent season, Ruth
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Hi Ruth, Thanks for sharing another way to transition the colors. That’s a great way to achieve a lovely gradient.
It would be fun to do a sample piece with various ways to do color gradations. Or, that would be an interesting study group project.
Advent blessings to you,
Karen
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We turned on the Spurs game the other night and I took one look at the other team’s uniform and said “gradient!” Not something you often see in a basketball uniform, lol.
Love the placemat!
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Hi Betsy, That’s too funny! Who else is even going to notice such things? …unless we call it the popular name-“ombré,” meaning shaded in French.
Happy weaving,
Karen
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I realized on a recent project the subtle transition between two light colours, in different tones added depth. I decided to shake up the mix and make the transitions much narrower in the next project and didn’t have as near an interesting effect. It needed large areas each for contrast.
I love your pattern too-
Hi Vivian, I have noticed the same thing. The areas with a longer transition make more satisfying gradation.
Thanks for your input!
Karen
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Copyright © 2019
Your ribbon bands add such a nice touch. Asking because I have no knowledge, how does a Band loom differ from an Inkle loom in what can be made with them?
Hi Beth, There’s no difference between the band loom and an inkle loom in what can be made on them, except maybe the width. I can weave up to about 4” wide on the band loom, though I normally use it for narrow bands. I also can put on a much longer warp on the band loom than on the inkle loom. This warp on the band loom right now is probably about 5 or 6 meters long.
The band loom is not as portable as an inkle loom, but the main advantage for me is how much faster I can weave bands on it. I can weave a band about four times faster on the band loom than on my inkle loom. The reason for this is that it has two treadles to open the sheds, making both hands free to do the continuous weaving.
I guess the other reason I use the band loom whenever I can is it’s just plain fun!
Thanks for asking!
Karen
Morning Karen…..I, too, have a question. Please. Do you sit and weave on the side of the loom, beating sideways….or at the end as with a regular tinkle…
Thanks so much..I always enjoy your blog..
Hi Karen, I sit and weave on the side of the loom, with the shuttle in my left hand, and the band knife in my right hand, and my feet on the treadles in front of me on the floor. There is a short video at the end of this post that demos how I weave on the band loom: Quiet Friday: Band Loom Warping and Weaving.
Happy Weaving,
Karen
The extra beating of the filler overlap blends the change so it is indistinguishable from the rest of the band. Who’d a thunk?
Thank you for the lesson.
Nannette
Hi Nannette, It is surprising what a big difference this little action makes. You really cannot see where the weft changes after I clip off the weft tails.
All the best,
Karen